PENDLETON WOOLEN MILLS
Pendleton Woolen Mills was a pivotal experience in my life with textiles. Post grad school, I designed woven dobby and jacquard fabrics for Pendleton’s exclusive line of home decor and apparel; my role spanned from design concept to commercialization. I managed the highly technical design and development of accessories, sportswear plaids, novelty weaves, and home decor.
OBJECTIVES
VISIONING
Pendleton Woolen Mills is one of the few domestic mills remaining in the US. There is a jacquard mill located in Pendleton, Oregon, and another mill in Washougal, Oregon. While the corporate headquarters are in Portland, Oregon, my initial month of employment took place at their Washougal mill. There, I focused on all aspects of fabric production. From wool blending, yarn spinning, dyeing, weaving, fabric finishing, to quality, I had access to anything I desired to learn. This experience brought my MFA practicum to life!
PROCESS
FORENSIC TEXTILES
One of my personal and professional goals was to be able to look at any woven textile and understand the weave structure. Part of my training at Pendleton helped me achieve this goal. I was paired with a mentor, John Palles. John was a genius textile engineer and designer who started working in UK textile mills in his teens. His mind was brilliant, and I feel lucky to have spent time with him. He taught me everything I need to know about reverse engineering any textile.
HAND WOVEN SAMPLING
True to its roots, new woven structures are often hand-woven at Pendleton. On the top floor of the corporate headquarters are five pristine looms. For the Macomber floor looms and one computer, dobby AVL. Here, my weaving experience received a priceless education from an entire department of designers who, collectively, shared 300 years of weaving experience.
Some days, I would weave for eight hours, sampling worsted wool twills or complex weave structures for novelty throws. This time at the loom allowed for innovative ideas for both my design job and my art practice.
DOBBY AND JACQUARD DESIGN
Often, before sampling took place, woven structures, colors, and yarns were paired in a CAD program.
I was able to design within a wide range of products at Pendleton. While I started with simple dobbies, my role grew to more complex dobbies, and eventually jacquard.
OUTCOME
My time at Pendleton was three years. In that time, I designed jacquard blankets, throws, fabric for accessories, dobby, and yarn-dyed patterns for sportswear.
